Lucy Baker

theatre critic / freelance journalist

St. Elsewhere: All of the Fine Dining, None of the Animal Suffering

Finding vegan alternatives has never been easier than it is now. As more and more people make the swap to plant-based diets, the variety of options available in the grocery store is constantly expanding. However, even in these modern times, fully vegan restaurants are few and far between. St. Elsewhere is looking to fill that void in Ottawa.

Located in the heart of Ottawa’s Chinatown, St. Elsewhere prides itself on their “fun and innovative plant-based menu”. The menu contains a variety of traditional dishes, from pasta to bourguignon to polpettone, all reimagined to be completely vegan. The restaurant itself is a perfect blend of modern and classic, with neon lights hung next to traditional art prints, and vintage booths and tables next to contemporary velvet chairs. The older building does unfortunately come with some drawbacks: it is not accessible, with steps leading up to the front door, as well as steps inside the restaurant.

The appetizer menu contains a wide variety of dishes, for many different palettes and appetites. The appetizers were all perfect sharing size, with a unique variety of flavours. The brussel salad played with our tastebuds – the sweetness of the shaved apples in the salad harmonized with the tart vinaigrette exceptionally well, creating a perfect balance. The smoked tofu, although less creative, was made unique with the addition of baba ghanoush.

The pasta dishes St. Elsewhere offers make up much of the menu and promised to be the stars of the show. The carbonara, complete with vegan parmesan, tasted just like the real thing, but did so without straying into the trap of too-close-for-comfort – it stayed true to itself as a vegan dish, a small touch that elevated the dining experience. On the other hand, the gnocchi failed to impress despite the pasta itself being delicious. The dish contained Beyond Sausage, which, compared to the rest of the ingredients in the gnocchi, did not meet the standards previously set by St. Elsewhere’s food.

The traditional dishes are executed to perfection, despite having the added challenge of being fully plant-based. Risotto is notoriously difficult to cook even when using traditional, nonvegan ingredients – namely butter and cheese. This dish becomes even more challenging when modified to be vegan. St. Elsewhere’s risotto was creamy, consistent, and delicious, even with the added complications of veganism.

Along with exemplary vegan food, St. Elsewhere has a vast wine menu to pair with the meals, as well as unique featured cocktails. We tried out the Idris Elba, along with the whiskey sour. Whiskey sours are typically not vegan, as they tend to contain egg whites, but St. Elsewhere’s sours are made using aquafaba – a minor change that is immensely important – not only is all of the food vegan, but all of the drinks are too.

As a vegan, I am always on the lookout for vegan restaurants that will appeal to everyone, vegan or not. Overall, St. Elsewhere is a must-try. Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian, flexitarian, omnivore, or herbivore, St. Elsewhere is sure to have something for everyone.

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